Your dog’s neck is a handy area to place a collar. Being narrower than their head or shoulders (except for some racier canines), a collar fitted there can’t easily be shaken off. The dog follows where their head goes, so controlling your dog’s head is intuitively the best controlling-point for a dog. The neck, however, is a crucial and fragile body-area, and damage to it is not difficult. So is the neck the best place to attach a lead, when pulling and jerking is inevitable?
There is no ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answer to simply decide between dog collars and harnesses; sorry folks, an answer isn’t that straightforward!
Having trouble controlling your dog on a walk? You are not alone, and reading my recent article ‘Are you the Alpha dog?’ may be enlightening. Click here to read now!
Collars
Collars are bad because:
Dogs with respiratory issues or those prone to coughing, shorter-nosed dogs and dogs with neck injuries could be badly hurt by a collar. Pugs can have eye-bulging problems if they pull with a collar. Thyroid and ear problems can also be caused by a pulling collar.
Some dogs will do all they can to wriggle out of a collar, which can cause neck or head injuries. This is often surprisingly easy for your dog if they are scared or panicked. Leads attached to a collar can quite easily become tangled in your dog’s legs even if they are not being overly-active.
Choke-chains and spiked collars are not useful for training a dog. Your dog may well behave as you demand when using these types of collars, but they are reacting to pain, not learning. Choke chains can jam in some cases, and spiked collars leave wounds in your dog’s neck. These collars can more easily cause serious injury than normal, flat collars. To be avoided.
Collars are great because:
A lead attached to your dog’s collar will tend to direct your dog’s shoulders and head towards you if they over-run the length of the leash. Their body tends to follow their head, so directing their head can give great control.
Although your dog may be good at pulling you when wearing a collar, that’s nothing compared to the power they may be able to use if attached to a back-clipped harness!
Collars are easier to wear than a harness, and they are perfect for attaching your dog’s ID tag. A harness can flatten the fur more than a collar because of it’s larger surface area; they can cause skin irritation with prolonged use, so is best not to be worn all the time. This means that a harness won’t be any good for attaching an ID tag to. Collars should be used permanently, to carry an ID tag. They can be made visible in the dark and they can easily be a fashion accessory for your dog!
Harnesses
Harnesses are bad because:
Some dogs, such as Huskies, have been bred to tow things. They absolutely love pulling when wearing a harness. That is great, but a harness could be the worst thing for you if you’d like to stop them pulling you along on a walk. They may well need training to reduce their natural tendency to pull through a harness.
A standard back-clipped harness does not tend to redirect your dog towards you like a collar can. Your dog may just add power to keep going in the direction they want.
Some dogs don’t like the feel of a harness around their body.
Harnesses are great because:
Harnesses are great for small dogs or puppies, and provide a secure anchor for close-control in emergencies. Many dogs respond well to training with harnesses, and become easier to control than if they were led using a collar.
Many harnesses also have a grab-handle on the back for close-holding or even lifting your dog up if needed. This is great for assisting a weak dog up steps or a slope (or helping them out if they fall in a canal!). Ensure that your dog’s weight is borne by a strap around their rib-cage – not their tummy.
Some harnesses have the facility to attach saddlebags. Your dog may feel far more useful when they are carrying items for you! This can also be a fitness aid for dogs needing more strength, fitness or conditioning.
There are many different designs of harness; some are great for towing, some are great for delicate control, and many can be used to reduce that annoying pulling of your excited dog! Some have D-rings to clip onto on the back and chest for even greater control. Click here to see a great example of this type.
Although not simply a harness, a dog life-jacket is a must for some dogs if walking them near deep water. They can have useful D-rings and grab-handles for control. Click here to read my article on Life Jackets For Dogs.
Front-clipped harnesses
These chest-led harnesses usually have a D-ring for your lead to clip onto at the front, in the middle of your dog’s chest. This arrangement means that a pulling dog will tend to pull themselves to the side, which is awkward for your dog but good for you. They will be easier to direct away from an over-exciting smell or another dog than with a back-clipped harness! Control is greatly improved in this way over a standard back-clipped harness.
Side-clipped harness
The lead is attached to a D-ring near the front, but to one side of the shoulder. These are often self-tightening harnesses – when your dog pulls, the front strap tightens around your dog and tends to pull them to the side as well. This is similar in action to the front-clip harness, but with an added tightening-sensation to give your dog more feel for delicate control without tugging. It’s great for stronger bigger dogs. A great side-clipped harness can be seen by clicking here! Our energetic Beagle/Labrador is far more easily and more safely led by my partner when using this exact harness.
Back-clipped harness
This is the ‘standard’ dog harness for normal use; the lead clips onto a D-ring on the back of your dog. These are often successful for better control of your dog, but they can also be an encouragement to your dog to start towing! It all depends on the size and breed of your dog, and the training they receive as to whether this style of harness is a success. This style of harness can also be used for strength/fitness training with your dog, for them to tow a sled or a tyre, etc for a great workout! Click here to read more about strength training.
This style of harness tends to be super-effective for smaller dogs and puppies as well as being good for many larger breeds. They are excellent for training and gentle on your dog. One of our own dogs is much better with a back-clipped harness than when led on a collar; discomfort to a dog does NOT mean better control!
Head Collars
In cases of extreme pulling by your dog, a head collar (such as this Halti head-collar) may be the best training solution. They will direct your dog’s nose in the direction you want to go. DO NOT allow a head collar to be jerked as this can lead to spinal injury! Training is the key to easy leading!
Conclusion: Dog Collars and Harnesses
It’s all in the detail, and the collar or harness that you use will depend to an extent on the shape, breed and size of your dog. Harnesses are generally suitable for all dogs and particularly important to consider for smaller dogs and puppies.
Front- or side-clipped harnesses are great for controlling larger, stronger dogs; back-clipped harnesses are perfect for most reasonably-behaved and all small dogs. Harnesses are generally not suitable for wearing all the time, as collars tend to be. Head collars should be used gently and are great for training your dog to follow your lead.
A collar needs to be a good fit and suitable for your dog’s breed. Sight-hounds such as Greyhounds, Whippets and Lurchers (Greyhound cross-breeds) will need a much wider, shaped and snugly-fitting collar to allow for their thin fur and small heads. They could easily reverse out of most standard flat collars! A well-fitted collar and lead can be a good solution if the collar is suitable for your non-pulling dog.
